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Snorkelling with Orca (Killer Whales) above the Arctic Circle, Norway... We zipped around the rough waters, through snow, through clear air, and then through snow again. But alas, there were no orcas to be seen. I was getting thoroughly cold by now as the wind chill cut through me - it was -20 degrees in the air alone, never mind the wind-chill factor. My fingers and toes were hurting with the cold, and I was given an extra pair of outer gloves to go over my two pairs. There was no shelter on the zodiac so I tried to think of warm things: hot fires, tropical beaches - but it didn't work. My toes were like painful, numb blocks of ice, and I had strong words with the skipper who'd promised m